A Personal Journal to South Africa & Zambia

This is a lengthy article, but we feel it is worth reading. It gives you a sense of safari that most people experience. The journal was written by Dr. H. Adams. He starts the journal in Cape Town's historic wine district, following the ocean road to Cape Point and Cape Town city following the post apartheid era in Cape Town. Then onto Zambia, where one can get the real feel of what going on safari is like. (Alana Hayden, Born Free).

I began the day with a walk through a lovely lane which meandered through the homes surrounding the vineyards near our inn in Stellenbosch The mountains surrounding the area have jagged cliff faces that blend with the gentle slopes and rolling verdant valleys below. 

The drive today from Stellenbosch took us along beautiful empty beaches. Empty because of their proximity to the shanties where gangs exist, making the area unsafe. Continuing on we viewed an enormous body of water called False Bay. With various peninsulas jutting out from the land like so many fingers, sailors navigating around the Cape of Good Hope would sometimes “falsely” enter and end up without navigable winds. Sometimes they would have to wait months for favorable opportunities to continue their journey.

After a delicious (seafood) lunch, we continued on to Kirstenbosch Gardens. The gardens were gorgeous. The garden is situated on slopes of the land which blends up Table Mountain which iconically overlooks Cape Town. It was filled with unique plants such as proteas and birds of paradise.

We arrived in Cape Town and settled into More Quarters, our home for the next four evenings in Cape Town. 

……………. Our guide was so articulate and knowledgeable. He shared a very concise history of South Africa. He weaved together a timeline of the events, tribes, colonists, politics, leaders, and various other elements that makes South Africa what it is today. 

 Step back into history and visit Robben Island is a small bit of earth off the coast of the city with an infamous past. Political prisoners resisting the Apartheid era were incarcerated and sequestered here with other criminals so that they could not foment unrest on the mainland. 

The most well-known inmate was Nelson Mandela whose story is well documented. It is interesting to note that on our tour around the island that very little was mentioned about him. We learned the stories of lesser-known inmates whose impact during their incarceration was also dramatic. They were the colleagues of Mandela who also worked in concert while in prison to keep the dream of Freedom alive. 

The guide was not just any guide as all the docents are ex-inmates. Perhaps because of his hardened past, perhaps because of his desire to reflect the severity of moments past, and perhaps because he wished to create a stern mood - he spoke to us as though he was the warden “welcoming” us to the intended sense of hopelessness he once embodied.

We walked the narrow hallways and looked in on the cells where Mandela and his fellow inmates slept - on the floor with only a few blankets to ward off the hardness and cold of the concrete. The cells were only eight feet by eight feet with windows, a small wooden bench, and two metal pans for eating. 

……The motto of Robben Island is “triumph of the human spirit.” How Mandela managed to withstand over eighteen years of incarceration to rally a nation around his dream of reconciliation, manage the lingering militancy of some, and forgive his captors speaks to his greatness.

The next day we went to the Jewish Museum and synagogue. We spent time reading stories and listening to the history of the Jewish people’s travels, mostly from Lithuania to this area in search of prosperity and peace. They too settled in District 6 and grew with city and the multiple cultures that coexisted beautifully up until Apartheid. 

One of the exhibits was a replica of a poor area in Lithuania. One of the rooms was set up for a Friday night dinner. Another room had the sweet sound of people singing familiar songs in Hebrew. I closed my eyes and listened. I was drawn back to a time with my grandparents when we would sing the same songs on Shabbat, and my connection to the past. The day we were there was the night before Rosh Hashanah. 

We live with gratitude. 

ZAMBIA – ON SAFARI

Our next adventure took us to the Africa we had envisioned, Zambia and our safari. There is an essence and spirit that is Africa. There is something that intoxicatingly captures your attention. There is an opportunity for being fully present in the moment that is hard for me to explain, and that permeates my very being to the marrow of my bones. This was our second trip to Africa with Born Free. 

```````````I write from the veranda of our tent at Chendeni Camp I am being serenaded by a cacophony of sweet sounds from many colorful and exotic birds with occasional lions raw or possible an elephant’s trumpet. A herd of elephants sprayed water and mud on their hides to cool themselves in the heat of the midday sun.

 Under the tree is a pride of lions. On a cue, they quickly walked to the water’s edge to drink. A giraffe reached its long neck up and grabbed a small cluster of leaves and enjoyed the succulent bite. It moved carefully to the water’s edge. Standing amongst some Impala that are unflustered by its presence, the Giraffe considered its surroundings before moving closer. Bending its legs in a very awkward looking posture, the Giraffe finally craned its neck to satisfy its thirst.

Driving through the bush had been a treat just in itself. Our Land Rover provides great visibility and the rush of cool air in the open cab is refreshing in the morning and evening game drives. There is a peace that comes over me in the unlimited terrain, the mountains lit shades of yellow and red in the morning and setting sun, the meandering waters of the South Luangwa River, and the expansive blue sky above.

What a treat there is a rare leopards bringing its prey into the trees. Suddenly, amidst the extremely dense thicket of brush, the amazing cat leapt to the ground from his perch and ran off. Our great guide, Chadwick, circled the vehicle over deeply rutted terrain of the dried riverbed to give us a better vantage point. After maneuvering we managed to locate the magnificent cat, undetected resting in the dried grass. Its natural markings acted as not only a beautiful display of coloring, but also wonderful camouflage. 

After viewing quietly and about to leave, the leopard jumped up the trunk of a tree and majestically positioned itself on a horizontal limb. With binoculars we saw into the pale grey-green eyes and stunningly beautiful face of the animal. 

Each evening once the sun was setting Chadwick pulled the Land Rover over and we had a quiet moment and a Sundowner. A platform was attached to the front of the vehicle and drinks and modest refreshments were offered. In the silence it allowed the grandeur and beauty of the moment to permeate my being.

On our return to the lodge Chadwick moved a bright spotlight at something in the distance. Once again, with his keenly trained eye we drove closer not knowing what he could have seen. The vehicle came to a stop, and we all sat quietly and alert waiting to be directed to the sighting.

Barely peeking out from a low area lying in wait was a large male leopard. About fifty yards from the leopard were four Kudus standing alert and motionless. We stared into the fading light and ensuing darkness to see the predator as best we could. 

Next day Chadwick pulled to a spot near the river for a surprise. A Bush lunch was set up complete with picnic tables and glass wear, a bar, and a pizza oven! We rolled out our dough, added the condiments of our liking, and enjoyed the meal and most importantly another moment in nature. Sitting next to the riverbank we viewed the low waters being crossed by a line of elephants on the move. 

After a day game viewing and as the sun began to set, we enjoyed the antics of hippos in the river semi-submerged like enormous boulders strewn about. They made bellowing sounds, opened their large jaws and yawned, and submerged again. 

This evening ended with the usual Sundowner (cocktails) allowing us to quietly immerse ourselves in this sacred environment. The joy of this evening was no exception. Standing on a sandbar on the Kapamba River near its confluence with the Luangwa we sipped on our drinks as a herd of twenty-three elephants slowly made their way across the Kapamba. 

There is an ebb and flow of life that is unescapable - and if rather than resisting it I allow the energies of life to flow freely I can live with greater dignity, grace, and ease. There are lessons to be learned in Africa. 

What a unique experience, a walking safari. I needed to immerse myself one more time in that opportunity and did so the next day. Joanne and Sandy went to see if they could catch a glimpse of the African Wild Dog pups, and Barry and I went for a walk in the bush with our armed rangers and guide.

Walking provided me with a special connection to the land. We stayed single file as is custom and did not speak to be as unobtrusive as possible. I looked in all directions and breathed deeply to absorb as much of this magical place as I could.

In the distance the guides all heard the barking sounds of Baboons warning danger was nearby. Chaddy turned to us before we detected the sounds and calmly informed us there were either leopards or lions in the area.

We came upon fresh tracks. I was both excited and curious to know if we were in any danger. The Bush is to be taken very seriously and with proper caution. We were not in harm’s way.

Chaddy pointed out the claw marks of a leopard as the cat had grabbed onto its bark to find a limb on which to rest. The more we looked we could see the patterns of the torn soft bark and picture what it might have looked like to see the magnificent cat leap and climb in that moment. 

Leopards choose horizontal limbs to be safe off the ground from other predators, to scan for prey or rest, and to devour its kill. 

We continued to appreciate, live in awe, and became new observers of this magical place - of nature and its truth and wonders. There were not enough superlatives to describe the experience and emotions that came forth.

We left to look for the lioness and her cubs after enjoying a bit of refreshment. Before we returned to the Land Rover Chaddy asked us which direction we should go. Good thing we followed him as we were so very completely wrong!

We crossed the river and were about to return to camp when we received a radio signal that the lioness and cubs had been sighted crossing the river not far from us. Chaddy did a quick about face and when we arrived at the sight where they had disappeared into the Bush. Never deterred, Chaddy maneuvered through, over, and around until we could get multiple looks at the mother and her cubs looking for a shady place to rest. 

 I am drawn to the land, its people, and all it has to offer. It is magically magnificent. Left alone by man life flows in birth and death as it is meant to be in all of its beauty and splendor.

The many miracles that are Zambia continued to cascade before us in one fantastic surprise after another. As the roads wind almost playfully through the bush, we were treated to one last treat before departing Zambia. 

No more than fifteen feet off the road standing between two trees were a mother and her baby elephant. Surprisingly neither were bothered by us as Chadwick turned off the trusty Land Rover and we sat in silence absorbing the solemnity of the moment. The mother’s prompting and gently using her trunk she nudged the baby on, and they disappeared into the bush.

The bush was a unique opportunity to learn, experience, and view nature in an intimate and unique manner. The rivers and estuaries, now low at the end of the dry season, allowed enough water for the animals to drink, and concentrated them for greater ease of viewing. We rarely saw another vehicle, so it is as if we are the only ones here. 

I am drawn to this sacred space and have a sensation of oneness with it all. I trust these inspiring memories will come easily to me. There is a part of me that will remain connected to this land and its people. 

Today we flew to the Lower Zambezi. Our luxury camp is set on the riverbanks. I am sitting on the deck of our tent which has afforded a myriad of experiences in and of itself. Looking out over the plunge pool which gave us daily respite from the mid-day heat, I can see hues of red and orange reflecting everywhere. 

A pod of hippos languishes in the calm smooth water in front of me. From their submerged places in the river, they surface - some to get a fresh breath of air; some make the now familiar grunting and chortling calls; and some to play. 

There is a surreal hazy mist that hangs over the water from the morning humidity that will give way to the heat of the day. Because of the grassland fires in the hills in the distance, the smoke over the valley adds a mystical aura as the new day dawns.

Once settled into our water-side tents at the camp we enjoyed the calm of a sunset ride out on the river. Lunch was served on a comfortable table and chairs that were set-up in the river. Sitting in the middle of this body of water in silence provided an opportunity to witness the enormity of the area, the power of nature, and gain a deep appreciation for its beauty as well as our infinitesimal place on the earth we inhabit.

We pondered the question - “what if man were to leave the earth - would nature and life as it was before our interruptions manage to right itself?” The answers appeared obvious now that we have seen firsthand how well the flora, fauna, birds, and animals have adapted to our presence.

Our time here has been focused on immersion into safari by water. Our first morning was spent in canoes wandering the narrow channels created as the water cut through the land creating “islands” of habitat and micro-environments. 

…………..It was with a joyful spirit that we immersed in this surreal experience feeling so very connected to the animals, birds, and the environment.

At first, we watched a single elephant swim directly across the water from one of the islands in front of our tent. He then began to forage for grass along the bank only feet from us. I tiptoed quietly to get a better view and stood right above the grazing animal. 

He raised his trunk to get a smell of us, and we looked directly into each other’s eyes. Without a hint of being bothered, the gentle giant continued its eating for an hour and sometimes reached its trunk up onto the ground where I was standing - so close I could have easily touched the unique appendage. 

The elephant moved down the embankment and then we began to hear the sound of leaves and branches being disturbed next to our tent. Another large bull elephant slowly ambled by and stopped inches from our deck. He was so close we were waiting for him to join us, but after staring at us through his long eyelashes he moved away. 

To be so close for so long and witness their habits as we did was an experience we will not forget. 

After siesta we took what would be our last game drive on safari. Compared to the more parched bush on the South Luangwa, the trees here were all green and it added a “cooling” backdrop to our viewing. One highlight was observing the amazing beauty and grace of a young male leopard as he stalked a small herd of impala. He waited patiently and so did we. Finally, the sleek animal moved off to quieter surroundings to hunt.

With our individual canoes and paddlers, we wandered through one of many small canals that meander from the main channel creating stunning intimate waterways amongst the island habitats. 

Sunset was always magnical.  It was our last night in Africa!

The next day we traveled to the airstrip by boat. I sat up front as we sped along the smooth surface of the river passing pods of hippos wiggling their pink colored ears, making their grunting sounds, and submerging to their watery home. I looked all around as the wind was blowing in my face and tried to imagine the force of it pushing the essence of nature into my being —

                                                                      Its wonder, splendor, wisdom, and beauty — and I smiled broadly so very content and at peace.